This guide will cover steps needed to configure Raspberry Pi 3 (2 works just fine too) to accept messages from RNS-E (via canbus). This will allow to use RNS-E buttons to control Kodi player on the Raspberry Pi. You will need: • RNS-E – it can be from any Audi car, both first and second generation (media button and LED screen indicates second generation) RNS-E are OK for this. I will be using A4B6, first model RNS-E. • Multimedia Adapter IMA Interface RNS-E Symphony 3 Video TV Cable Plug Audi or any other interface which can give you RCA input to RNS-E. Original TV tuner which comes with Audi should do the trick too, as I did not have it, I had to purchase this. • RCA cables • HDMI2AV converter.

It will be used to convert HDMI signal, to RCA/Composite. Note: You could go directly from Raspberry Pi to RCA via it’s built in composite output, but if you would look up forums you would notice that they are full of complains about poor audio quality and static noise. Been there, tried suggestions, they did not help a lot. • HDMI cable, try to get short one. • Raspberry Pi 3 • PiCAN2 CAN-Bus Board • microSD card – make sure you get fastest microSD card you can get, I am using Class 10 which works quite nice.

Audi A4 B7 Double Din Cage for RNS-E Navigation 8E0858005F OEM Genuine Euro Car Upgrades offers diagnostics, installation & coding in Maroochydore on the Sunshine Coast QLD 54795555 and Australia wide. Ayurvedic Garbh Sanskar Book By Balaji Tambe Free Download there. Feb 27, 2006 TeddyBGame RNS-E install for. These pictures were borrowed from a B6/B7 A4/S4. Documents Similar To Audi A6 C5 - RNS E install guide_Part1.pdf.

For the base of this project I have selected Raspbian Lite, you should be able to use any Raspbian based operating system, but I selected this to keep packages to the minimal amount. You can download it from. At the moment of writing this tutorial, latest version is 2016-05-27. Once you have file downloaded, extract it, you will get.img. Use to write it to your microSD card. Then insert it to the Raspberry Pi, plug in the Ethernet cable and power it on. Use SSH client (for example) to connect to it, for that you will need IP address of the device, check your router in order to locate it. Enter IP address and port 22.

During the first connection, you will receive a security alert, that is normal, click Yes. Once you are connected login, the default username is: pi The default password is: raspberry Before we continue, it is a good idea to update all packages to the latest version and enable some features. Type this to the putty: sudo apt-get update sudo apt-get upgrade sudo reboot Then re-connect to the device via putty again and re-login, now type this: sudo raspi-config It will launch the tool which we need to use to configure the device.

Expand Filesystem – Select it and wait few moments, then just click Ok. Boot Options – Select it and then in the next windows “Console Autologin”, then click OK.

• 4 Wait for Network at Boot – Select it and then it will ask if you would like to wait during boot until you get the connection, select No. • 9 Advanced Options – Select it and then “A5 SPI”, select “Yes” to enable SPI Interface. • Now select “Finish” and reboot. Then re-connect again. We need to install some packages which we will be using later: sudo apt-get install git python-setuptools autoconf libtool Now type: sudo nano /boot/config.txt The command above will open a text file which we need to modify. Note please that # means that parameter is commented out and does not work. Leaving old parameter in there as a reference, as that was the parameter which you had to use in previous Rasbian versions and now it has been changed.

Scroll down to the bottom of the file and add the lines which are bellow. Your config already should have dtparam=spi=on in there. Thank you, so I don’t need to solder a jumper bridge to JP3 on the board, great news. Do you have any experience in also connecting PWR and GRND directly to the PiCAN board because I was wondering if this means, that the board automatically turns on/off the PI when there is either an electronic ignition respectively when the key gets removed. Normally PWR (which goes to the RNS-E) is a steady positive pole but I wasn’t sure if the PiCAN recognises ignition and stuff like that because it is also connected to CAN-High and CAN-Low.

Hello from Norway! Initially posted this on audizine, but wanted to share it here aswell. Can be removed if considered a 'double post'.

I know there's great DIY's on this topic already Anyways, this spring I decided to do the RNS-E retrofit. I initially had the Concert II single DIN headunit.

Disclaimer: I am not a mechanic, and will not take responsibility for anything that may be damaged or broken while using this DIY on your own vehicle. This DIY is intended as an aid only. Table of contents - Prerequisites (post #1) - Removal of the center console (post #1) - Modifying the center console (post #2) - Modifying the climate control unit (post #2) - Installing the double DIN cage (post #3) - RNS-E installation (post #3) Prerequisites Single DIN → double DIN • Double DIN radio cage 8E0 858 005 C (B6, aluminum) or 8E0 858 005 F (B7, plastic) • Climate control 8E0 820 043 BM (B7 model, facia color to match RNS-E) RNS-E retrofit • RNS-E navigation unit 8E0 035 192 D (A4 B7 face plate) • Quadlock adapter, GPS antenna, Fakra adapter Ebay, Kufatec etc.

Tools • Audi radio removal keys (x4) • 8mm & 13mm socket, Torx T20 & T10, hacksaw ++ • Flat headed & Philips screw driver Removal of center console Use the radio removal keys. Insert as shown. Pull straight out. Remove connectors. The yellow plug is a fakra connector. It might be a good idea to protect your gear knob. Remove old climate control unit.

It pulls straight out. Remove all connectors from the back of the panel. Remove the trim surrounding the gear knob. It has 4 clips, 1 at each corner. Pull straight up. Dragon Age 2 Dlc Decrypter Md5. Push to release cover beneath e-brake lever.

Remove 2x Philips screws Remove 8mm bolts securing ashtray. Disconnect the power to the LED illumination. Remove the cover in front of the ashtray to remove the assembly.

It reveals two hidden 8mm bolts. Remove followings bolts: 2x 8mm bolts below the ashtray assembly. 2x 8mm bolts below gear knob trim. 2x 8mm bolts all the way to the front of the center console (1 on each side). Remove 4x 8mm bolts securing the center console and radio cage (2 shown in this picture) Pull out e-brake lever handle. There is a little clip on the handle part that needs to be pushed upwards, in order for it to release. You can then remove the e-brake lever sleeve behind it.

Remove ashtray from rear seats to reveal the bolts securing the armrest and center console. The ashtray pulls straight out. Use a universal joint to access the 13mm bolt securing the armrest. There are two more 13mm bolts securing rear part of center console.

Lift the center console up and backwards to remove it. Be careful not to scratch the painting on the ESP-button, card tray and cup holder. The cup holder and card tray has a clip in each corner, securing it in place. Push these down, and use your other hand from behind to push it out. Unplug the connector to the LED. The hazard button pulls straight out.

Remove the single DIN cage. It is secured at the bottom pivot point by two T20 Torx screws. Continued in post #2.

Modifying the center console There is a difference on single DIN and double DIN center consoles. Luckily, the single DIN can be modified to accept the double DIN cage. This process involves some cutting.

Use a hacksaw for this procedure. This is the piece that needs to be removed. It measures 40 mm x 85 mm. This flap also needs to be removed. Test fitting the double DIN cage. This piece also needs to be cut in order to fit the double DIN setup.

Use your hacksaw to cut a straight line just after the clips. There is a groove that works perfectly as a cutting guide. How the finished part should look like. Modifying the climate control unit The double DIN climate control unit came off a B7, which has a slight difference in the electrics. Instead of having a built in relay for the rear heated window, it sends only a trigger signal to an external relay located somewhere else in the vehicle.

It is possible to make the B7 unit work on a B6, but it requires wiring in a relay. Some users have reported that the B7 panel is throwing fault codes on illumination (it stays lit at maximum brightness). I did not bother to experiment with the B7 panel, so I decided to swap the face plates and use my old climate control instead. Use a Torx driver to remove 6x screws from the back of your old climate control unit.

Unclip a total of 7 clips securing the faceplate to the unit. Remove a total of 8 screws securing the button/LCD board to the faceplate. They are easy to spot. Remove the two clips securing the dials for heated seats. Now do the same to the other unit and swap the face plate. Continued in post #3. Installing the double DIN cage Put it into place and fasten the two Torx screws on the lower pivot point.

Install the ESP and hazard switch, card tray and cup holder. Now is a perfect opportunity to replace those old peeling interior pieces with ones from a B7! Reinstall the center console. Remember to reconnect the 12V outlet.

Reinstall ashtray (remember LED connector) before installing the modified piece in front of it. This is how it should look like now. This connector will not be in use anymore. It was connected to a LED on the single DIN cage to illuminate the space in front of the ashtray. Tuck it away. Center console reinstalled and climate control fitted. RNS-E installation The installation of the RNS-E is pretty straight forward once the double DIN cage is in place.

For cars not factory equipped with navigation, one needs to install a GPS antenna. The following pictures will aid in this installation, and shows all of the connectors to the RNS-E unit. Use your key to remove the side panel on the driver’s side. Remove the 8mm bolt to the right in the picture.

Here you can also se the preferred location for the GPS antenna, on the metal square just above the fuse panel. Remove 1x 8mm bolt located near the bonnet release lever. Remove the last 8mm bolt located near the accelerator pedal. The kick panel is clipped into place along the upper edge. Once the 3x screws are removed, pull towards the driver’s seat, and it will come loose. Showing the localization of the GPS antenna. Guide the antenna cable over the steering column towards the center console.

The GPS antenna has a magnetic base, but I also added double-sided adhesive to secure it firmly. Make sure the kick panel clips into place behind the brake pedal. There’s also a clip above the foot rest panel. Connect the Quadlock adapter.

Connect the adapter to the old antenna cable and the yellow Fakra. Connect all wiring to the RNS-E unit. Push it into place, but not all the way in. You need to make sure that everything works, and that the wiring behind is tucked safely away. PIN entry screen.

The radio code (PIN) can be retrived using i.e. Just send your serial# - and you will get your PIN emailed ($12). I still need to code my unit for my car to accept it. This can be done via VCDS (w/ license). Enjoy the looks of your newly installed RNS-E unit!