It doesn't have to be very accurate in terms of structure or function or sound. If there is a standard, it would likely be considered to be the shape of the original F5s; those signed by Lloyd Loar. There was some variation in the outline of those, though, so exact measurements are still not critical. The 'Hogo' plans are very accurately measured and drawn, and I might suggest contacting Adrian (the author of those plans) with your question. He's a computer guy too.

Think about what kind of case you want to put it in, and, unless you want to use a custom case don't get so radical that it won't fit a 'standard' case. I'm an Adrian, but not the Adrian that drafted the plans.anyway, I'm also interested in the geometry behind the F5 shape, but haven't been able to find very much at all. Test Drive Unlimited 1 Download Free Full Version Pc Tpb. Trying to figure it out with compasses etc hasn't got me far either. I am currently starting to try and get the outline into Autocad working from a paper blueprint, but I've only just started. I drew out a grid, and now I'm putting in points based on coordinates from two reference lines.haven't got enough done to be able to say how well it will work though. I'd like to be able to compare my version with other Autocad versions, but I was surprised to be unable to find anything out there.

Full-text (PDF) This paper describes the development of a simple paper-and-pencil test designed to measure satisfaction/dissatisfaction with 16 body parts. Can be applied to the two-body loss problem in the hydrogen condensate experiments, and. Is sufficiently high for for the positivity condition of the noise matrix (59) to be satisfied, the. P-function interpretation of. Related to µC (the healing length at peak density, and the mean field time scale); but since in the hydrogen.

Hi Amori- Just make sure it fits in a case is all. #Any change from the 'Loar' pattern (i.e. Scroll change) makes the shape of the body less relevent. #I remember a discussion of trying to derive the shape of the F5 with geometry and classical proportion e.g. Francois Denis, but I just don't think that's the way it was done.

#Just sketched out to someone's personal idea of what looks good, like a French violin. #I'd send you some loaner material if you lived in the U.S. #Elderly instruments sells Hogo's plans, but shipping to South Africa could be stifling. I just wondered about how accurate the exact tear drop part needed to be. I guess the answer would be, 'By whos criteria?

What are you trying to achieve? A copy of an original F5 or just a mandolin? Unless you are attempting to build an exact duplicate, it isn't important at all except to satisfy your personal tastes. It certainly won't keep you from building a good sounding instrument unless you make a big altertion. If you want to alter the shape, you are the only one that needs to be satisfied.

On the other hand, if you want a high quality copy of an original F5, then it makes sense to do some careful measuring. >>many (most? Download Driver Lettore Smart Card Ez100pu ???? on this page. ) plan vendors don't want to provide electronic files as the risk of it getting out are too great. Hello, I'd answer the first question in this thread. There are some geometric principles that make the shape pleasing to the eye. 1) You want to make the bend between the treble side corners symmetric. If you don't the shape want look very balanced. 2) because of the 1) you should not make the basic 'teardrop' shape perfectly symmetric about the body centerline.

It really looks better when the widest parts are matched in symmetry, but the parts at the upper point are not, with the treble side being more 'cutaway' and the bass side a bit straightening towards the scroll. The widest point of the bass side curve can be a bit (1/4') closer to the tail end than the other side. 3) on the scroll you want the button be in the lower left quadrant of the scroll and the radiuses should change gradually from largest radius at the side furtherst from the centerline to the radius of the button. That's my $.02, Adrian. Amori, one more tip. Import the pics into Photoshop, resize to correct size, and use paths to trace the shape, they can be exported to.ai files, which are vector files that can be open with Corel or Illustrator and saved as dxf. I've used this a lot in the past and still I cannot find a better method.

You can import Jpeg into ACAD or Corel, but Adobe products are the easiest to use. Be sure what version of ACAD dxf you're exporting to the newer dxf formats make a spline of the curves which may be hard to work with, the earlier (10 and less) versions produce polylines.

Scale Objects Using a Scale Factor With SCALE, you can make an object uniformly larger or smaller. To scale an object, you specify a base point and a scale factor. Alternatively, you can specify a length to be used as a scale factor based on the current drawing units. A scale factor greater than 1 enlarges the object.

A scale factor between 0 and 1 shrinks the object. Scaling changes the size of all dimensions of the selected object. A scale factor greater than 1 enlarges the object. A scale factor less than 1 shrinks the object.

Scale Objects Using a Reference Distance You can also scale by reference. Scaling by reference uses an existing distance as a basis for the new size. To scale by reference, specify the current distance and then the new desired size. For example, if one side of an object is 4.8 units long and you want to expand it to 7.5 units, use 4.8 as the reference length.

You can use the Reference option to scale an entire drawing. For example, use this option when the original drawing units need to be changed. Select all objects in the drawing. Then use Reference to select two points and specify the intended distance. All the objects in the drawing are scaled accordingly.